Gwaii Haanas

This group of 140+ islands is only accessible by boat. We took a zodiac tour to see some of them. The Haida lived here for millennia but abandoned their villages 3 generations ago for reasons unknown. Volunteers (watchmen) are caretakers of the sites. We visited a site at one of the largest estuaries in Canada, where all 5 species of salmon come to spawn. Pink salmon were gathering in the estuary while eagles flew overhead.

We were greeted by Reg, a Haida elder who explained the ways of his people: Respect and intimacy with the land, sea and air. GIve, don’t take.